Pakistan - Getting Around

Safe travel inside Pakistan is subject to weather, regional idiosyncrasies and plain luck. Bandits prey on buses and trains; the roads are makeshift, and if the robbers don't get you, the dilapidated buses might. Pakistan is a patchwork of tribal- and government-controlled areas, sprinkled liberally with bandits who couldn't care less who "rules" the area. Most travelers have a great time, despite the chaos.

Substantial areas within North-West Frontier Province are designated tribal areas, outside the normal jurisdiction of government law enforcement authorities. Travel within these areas is particularly hazardous. Tribal feuds or conflicts between smuggling factions may incidentally involve foreigners. Even in the settled areas, ethnic, political or sectarian violence may target foreigners. Car hijackings and the abduction of foreigners are occasionally reported from the tribal areas. If visitors must enter the tribal areas, a permit must be obtained from the Home Department, which may require that an armed escort accompany the visitor.

Driving

Today, Pakistan is busy spending the millions appropriated to it by the World Bank to upgrade its highways. Unfortunately, no one has been taught to drive. The white lines on those freshly made highways are an old colonial anachronism. Drivers weave, honk, squeeze, yell, wave, swerve and do everything except brake when faced with an oncoming car.

Considering the Pakistanis' creative use of their roadways, it is not surprising that, despite all the press about dacoits (local bandits) and civil unrest, the greatest potential for injury while traveling through Pakistan is the chance of being involved in a crash or being smacked like a cricket ball when crossing the street. To give pedestrians and other drivers a chance, Pakistanis decorate their vehicles with as many bright and shiny objects as possible. If you do happen to take a bus around the country, DP advises you to keep your eyes closed, unless you really are after a thrill a minute.

Of a total 35,258 miles of roads in Pakistan, 24,952 (a generous 70 percent) are paved. The torturous terrain requires major engineering feats to put in roads. Most of the country can only be traversed via pack-trails and footpaths. The main highway is the Grand Trunk Road between Karachi and Peshawar. The multilane highway linking Karachi with Hyderabad is also a major route, permitting crazed drivers to get more out of their sheet-metal buckets than Isaac Newton would ever advise. The Indus Highway, the other north-south artery, is being improved, and there will eventually be a highway connecting Peshawar with Karachi, via Islamabad and Lahore.

The most impressive highway is the 1,200 kilometers Karakoram Highway, built over a 20-year period to link the remote Chinese market town of Kashgar with Peshawar to the south. The road is a mind-blower for its mountainous scenery and is frequently closed due to landslides, snowstorms, floods and other topographical afflictions. Various adventure groups offer bicyling tours for the eco-adventurous. Obviously, the hundreds of ever smiling drivers would think nothing of adding one more shiny decoration to the side of their overloaded trucks.

On paper, Pakistan borrows the British rule of driving on the left. In reality, driving is a death-defying blend of the German habit of operating motor vehicles with the pedal to the floor, the Italian habit of talking with their hands, and the Asian custom of ignoring mirrors, or side and rear windows. The fact that most Pakistani roads are designed for Alexander's (the Great) camels keeps it interesting. If you want less control over your destiny, you might want to hire your own talkative driver and deathtrap car from the Pakistan Tourism folks. A 4WD jeep is preferable for more rugged trips in the north. Suzukis and Jeeps are popular. You will need a large security deposit and will be dinged about eight rupees per km and 200 rupees per day. Or, you can negotiate a fixed rate if you know your itinerary.

In the cities, yellow taxis are cheap and should be hired round-trip, since they tend to gravitate to hotels and are hard to find elsewhere. Wildly decorated buses are cheaper, but remember they expect you to jump on (and off) while they are moving. Don't forget the seats by the driver are for women and don't be shy about yelling before your stop.

http://travel.state.gov/pakistan.html

By Rail

As with many other former British colonies, Pakistan was built around its aging railway system. The country is linked by the north-south railway between the southern port of Karachi and the city of Peshawar in the North-West Frontier Province. The line runs through most major population centers.

Pakistan Railways offers 8,775 kilometers of track, 907 stations, 78 train stops, 714 locomotives, 2,926 passenger coaches and 32,440 freight wagons. Sixty percent of Pakistan's track and 30 percent of its rolling stock are supposed to be scrapped, but are in use every day. Express trains have been held up by dacoits on the link between Karachi port and Lahore. You'll have a choice between second, economy, first, and air-conditioned classes. Go for the air-con class, since rail travel is cheap, slow and nostalgic in this class. The other classes are just torture. Bedding, toilet paper, soap and towels are not supplied on first-class couchettes but can be rented from the reservations office. The train between the Afghan border and Peshawar is the most interesting, as two steam trains (one at each end of the train) labor up and back down the Khyber Pass every Friday. Currently, Westerners are not allowed on this train, since it goes through the locked-down Khyber area.

http://danger-ahead.railfan.net/reports/rep99/

By Air

For those of you who want to avoid the mind numbing terror of Pakistan's roads, you will be happy to know that there are indeed loads of internal flights all around the country. Air travel, particularly to the northern areas, is often disrupted due to weather conditions. Regional airlines in the north have to fly below some of the world's tallest mountaintops. Islamabad/Rawalpindi International Airport is five miles northwest of Islamabad and a 20-minute drive by taxi. State-run Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) maintains tardy but vital service to 41 international and 33 domestic destinations. There are 112 airfields, of which 104 are usable, 75 have a permanent surface. There are 31 runways over 8,000 feet. Domestic tickets are cheaper when bought inside Pakistan. Pakistanis pay about half what you will pay. Airfares are laughably cheap (about US$10-$80 for any internal leg). You must pay in rupees. International flights to Karachi or Islamabad should be bought in major European or Asian bucket shops. Pakistan International Airways has the dubious task of flying very used equipment around the world's most hostile flying environments. Soaring mountains, dust, high winds, turbulence, down- and updrafts and the extra maintenance required to keep planes airborne may be the reasons why the landing announcement is a Muslim prayer: "Ladies and Gentlemen, Inshallah (God willing), we will be shortly landing." The feeling of flying heavily loaded turboprops well below many of the world's highest mountains is, quite frankly, a thrill. The turboprops can be very bumpy, and don't be surprised to find passengers praying fervently on rough flights. Despite the white-knuckle flights, air travel is still the recommended means of transportation between major cities in Pakistan. Keep in mind that many flights are overbooked, but seats on these flights can be bought by sweet-talking (and, of course, bribing) an airport porter.

http://www.piac.com/index.htm

http://www.rpi.edu/dept/union/paksa/www/html/pakistan/trans.html

http://www.piads.com.pk/

Insider Tip

Pakistan is a land of frustrating red tape, but there are many ways to cut through it. For example, you can be told that a flight is overbooked, only to find out that a flight with one connection to the same destination is available. You can be stopped from entering a region by an emphatic border guard, only to walk 20 yards further along the border and walk right through. There is little that cannot be bought, solved, rented or fixed in Pakistan for a moderate fee. In fact, getting around problems is a major source of income for enterprising Pakistanis and "Afghans." There was little DP could not do or make happen in Pakistan with a little financial lubrication. So, when in doubt, whip it out (your rupees). A case in point.

A newly made friend asked me if I could get him a visa to America. I said, "It's not like Pakistan, you can't just pay people off."

"Surely you can pay the police 2000-3000 rupees (about US$100) to get me in? I could be your gardener."

"Sorry, no way."

"What kind of country is that?" he said in disgust.

Trekking

Since many of the major historical sites have been pounded to rubble by invading armies, and the vast deserts to the south do not inspire too many nature photographers, Pakistan realizes that most of the tourism is related to its spectacular northern mountain scenery. You will find this area of Pakistani tourism well run and efficient. In a country where you would have a hard time finding a decent motor-coach tour, you can climb a major mountain with great ease (or at least make the preparations). To facilitate understanding and access, tourism officials have divided the country into open, restricted, and closed zones for trekkers. Open zones go up to only 6,000 meters. Travel above that point is classified as mountaineering and requires a separate permit. The best source for information and permits is through the various trekking packagers well in advance of your trip (permits can take months).

Climbing

Although Everest is number one on the list of climbers, K2 (8,611 meters, 28,251 feet) really is the tougher climb. It is also one of the world's most dangerous climbs. Only 119 people have made it to the top of K2, compared to the 600 that have planted a flag on Mt. Everest. What makes K2 the most dangerous mountain in the world is its annual death toll. When DP was in northern Pakistan, there was a reward to find the bodies of two climbers who had disappeared in an avalanche.

Everest is on the border with Nepal and Tibet and costs a staggering $50,000 for six climbing permits. K2 is a bargain at $10,000 for six climbers. These are just the climbing fees, and with supplies, porters and excess baggage fees, climbing the big peaks is a sport for not only the brave, but also the rich.

http://www.findaguide.com/pages/pkclimbh.htm

http://www.infohub.com/TRAVEL/ADVENTURE/RECREATION/ASIA/pakistan.html