An area created in 1901 by the British who could never figure how to "civilize" the many tribes and clans, the NWFP is still the land of badal, or revenge. It is the oldest continuously lawless area in the world. Home to the "wily Pathans," this rugged land of green valleys and snowcapped valleys has never been fully conquered by Alexander, Moghuls, Sikhs, Brits or even the Russians. The North-West Frontier Province has an affinity with Afghanistan in the west and is known for its well-armed populace. Its a place where the local farmers like to guard their crops with antiaircraft guns, with Stinger missiles inside the house for emergencies. Not a big surprise, really, when we tell you that the "crops" in question happen to be hash and opium. And snoopy outside visitors are often regarded with some suspicion. It's the kind of place where the locals might invite you to stay a while longer than you had planned. Especially so if the government gets any ideas about trying to eradicate the crops. Nothing better on the bargaining table than a couple of foreign tourists to concentrate everybody's minds. To be fair, though, opium production in the NWFP appears to be on the decline these days. Of the 800 (recorded) tons produced in 1980, by 1998 there were 24 (recorded) tons. Instead of producing, though, Pakistan has become more of a conduit for some of the annual 2,000 or so tons that are produced in Afghanistan. Peshawar, the largest city and capital of the province, could be accurately described as Dodge City without the benefit of a Wyatt Earp. Weapons are carried and sold openly on the streets. The city is the home of over 1 million Afghan refugees who live in three large mud cities. If you're in town and want to find a decent watering hole, the best (and only) place is the American Club; but you'll need someone to sign you in.
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