Intercity buses are officially off limits to foreigners and trains are often restricted to Cambodian citizens (though it is now possible to take the train to Kompot from Phnom Penh-just be persistent!). By road, Siem Reap can be reached from Phnom Penh via share taxis (or rented motorcycle), which take National Route 5 to Battambang and then swing east around the Tonle Sap Lake. The trip is long and arduous, however, and security on the Sisaphon-Siem Reap leg is chancy, especially after dark. National Route 6, the most direct road from Phnom Penh, is still highly insecure between Kompong Thom and Siem Reap.
By air, Royal Air Cambodge (owned by Malaysian Air Service) flies new Boeing jets and ATR turboprops to Siem Reap from Phnom Penh several times daily and several times weekly to Sihanoukville, Battambang, Ko Kong and Rattanakiri. Siem Reap is also accessible by air from Bangkok via Bangkok Airways.
There are now several companies running a speedboat service to Siem Reap via the Tonle Sap River. The trip takes about five hours from Phnom Penh; foreigners pay US$25, Khmers 50,000 riel, one way. Two types of boats make the run: long, enclosed boats bought secondhand from Malaysia, and comparatively new, smaller speedboats with twin outboard engines run by a Chinese company. The long boats are the more comfortable, with aircraft-like interiors, air-conditioning, and real (if tiny) toilets. Be sure to bring toilet paper, as none is provided. Earplugs are also a good idea, as the drone of the engine competes with torturous, tinny and continually repeating Khmer karaoke videos played at top volume. The smaller speedboats are supposedly a bit faster, but the double-row bench seats get uncomfortable after an hour, and the "toilet" is a roofless box at the stern. Both boats depart every day at 7 a.m. from the Psar Toit area north of the Japanese Bridge. A free shuttle to the pier leaves about 6:30 a.m. from the Capitol Hotel.
Travel to Siem Reap is also possible on the slow cargo boats, which depart Phnom Penh regularly and take a full 24 hours. The boat anchors in the middle of the river for the night; travelers must bring their own sleeping gear. Price is about 3,500 riel one way.
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