Pailin, only 20 kilometers from the Thai border in western Cambodia, is the former Khmer Rouge headquarters and now a semiautonomous zone run by Ieng Sary and other Khmer Rouge defectors. Westerners are both an oddity and a curiosity here, as only a few short years ago they would have been abducted and/or executed well before they got this far into KR territory. To preserve their fragile coexistence with Phnom Penh, the former KR-though they remain suspicious of foreigners-take pain to ensure that the rare visitors here have a safe stay. But the 80-kilometer stretch of roadway between Battambang and Pailin is flanked by huge quantities of land mines-right to the edge of the road. Don't even think about finding a bush to pee behind.
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