There are flights to Buka from Port Moresby. Buy your ticket to Arawa (the main town on the island). If you think you can just pop up the mountain for a chat with "Cranky Franky," as his detractors call him, forget it. DP was the first outsider in two years to meet with Francis and we were told there would be everything from snipers to skulls on sticks on the road up. Was there? Depends if you have an invitation.
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