Afghanistan - Getting Around

Afghanistan is sort of an Adventureland notch for journos-a place where you can take a cab to the front lines and be home in time to shop for carpets on Chicken street. The Talibs view most journos with a jaundiced eye since the rash of gender junkets trashed their ideas on women's fashion and law and order.

Although they told me that DP was the first North American the Taliban had talked to long ago, I am sure the thrill has long worn off as everyone from National Geographic to Dateline does their prerequisite Afghan Taliban adventure story. Areas under Talib control are safe but expect major league hassles from Talibs who want to know what your business is. Try taking pictures of them and you may end up walking like a chicken. The north is still wild and wooly and the last time I tried to get around on a fuel convoy I was told that I might be stopped by brigands and "teased" like one of their drivers was a while back. I learned later that this is a polite way of saying sodomized. Soooeii.

The favored modes of travel are by minibus (cheap and available in all small towns), private car (not as available) and pack animals, which are slow and a great way to see what land mines can do. There is no law inside Afghanistan other than the Taliban's industrial-strength version of sharia, usually mixed in with a little local tribal law and whatever the local commander feels like doing with you that night. If he wants you to watch a Ned Beatty movie with him decline, politely. (no more Deliverance jokes from here on in.)

It is helpful if Westerners understand Afghan culture and have a basic understanding of the Pakhtun (Pathan) language. Most important is knowledge of the customs of Islam. Despite what you read in the press most Afghans (and not just the Taliban) are devout Muslims and adopt traditional dress and customs. Currently, there is little animosity toward Westerners, but you will be lectured continuously on Islam and considered an oddity for not embracing what is essentially the only religion in Afghanistan. Any major affront to Islam could result in severe punishment or a sound beating. Travel only with the permission of each local commander and be prepared to drink a lot of tea.

Abdul Hakeem Mujahid is your man if you want to get into Talib-held areas. The Taliban's ambassador in Pakistan now works out of a small office in a third-floor walkup in Queens, New York.

Embassy Locations

Because there is no U.S. embassy in Afghanistan and no country represents U.S. interests here, the U.S. government is unable to provide normal protective services to U.S. citizens in Afghanistan (as if they would even if they had an embassy). The nearest U.S. embassies and consulates are in Pakistan and Tajikistan. The telephone number for the (very helpful if you want reasons to stay out of Afghanistan) but under siege U.S. embassy in Islamabad, Pakistan, is: [92] (51) 826-161/179. There is little they can do for you once you are in Afghanistan.

U.S. Consulate in Peshawar, Pakistan

Tel: [92] (521) 279-801/2/3

U.S. Embassy in Tashkent, Uzbekistan

Tel: [7] (3712) 771-407/771-081

U.S. Embassy in Dushanbe, Tajikistan

Tel: [7] (3772) 21-0356/-0360/-0457

U.S. Embassy in New Delhi, India

Tel: [91] (11) 600-651